Hola Love ❤
Hope you are doing great. Since last year I wanted to create a saree look book. I am not an Indian Attire person then too on some special occasions I like to wear suit or drape saree. I have worn saree many times since last year but haven’t worn it with blouse. Or even if I have worn it with blouse i have never worn it in proper way.I always add my flavour to it.
I have tried three looks in with this saree. Adding my flavour o it I worn a top instead of a blouse with bell frills. The saree has white base and purple print on it, so I decided to carry it with purple top. As the saree is of cotton we cannot experiment alot with it. Cotton is light and easy to carry in every season. As its neither winter nor summer so I carried the saree with a woolen top. The saree is carved with “Dabu Printing”
What is dabu print?
Dabu printing is a traditional art and an elaborate process in a unique way
of dyeing and printing by which exceptional print fabrics of unique appeal
result. This mud-resist hand-block printing is practiced mostly in certain
pockets in the state of Rajasthan, India. The appearance of these fabrics is
unique for the brilliant floral and thematic patterns in sharp and finely
detailed prints of bright and well-chosen hues & designs that have left
modern pundits dumbstruck
Dabu Prints – an eco-friendly tradition
The highlight of Dabu printed fabrics is the use of organic colours and
vegetable pastes which are eco-friendly, skin-friendly, fast, and retain their
brilliance for most of the lifetime of the fabric. Dabu printed
sarees undergo a rigorous process that involves a lot of not so easily
available and costly natural dyes and vegetable pastes.
The following are used for making the print paste that goes into the magic
of the Dabu prints.
1. Black clay from the nearby ponds. This is the main ingredient that goes
into creating the resist effect in the Dabu process.
2. Bidhan or Wheat powder obtained from the wheat eaten by wheat
insects. This improves the adhesion quality of the print paste to the block
3. Gum Arabic that is fundamental to the print paste for adhesion to block
4. Lime water that prevents the cracking of clay at the printed portion. It also improves adhesion of print to fabric.
Fabric: The base fabric, although traditionally included only cotton and silk,
today includes chiffons, georgettes and crepes as well. Pure cotton, pure
silk, chiffon, crepe, georgette and super net sarees have shown good
results with Dabu prints.
Dye: Both natural and chemical indigos are used for dyeing in combination
with some other natural dyes like dried pomegranate skin and alizarin.
How Dabu took root – a story
It is said that a man who by tradition colored clothes for a living (Rangrej in
Hindi), in his trip to the river for water did not notice the mud that had clung to his dhoti at the river bank when he returned. The next day the dhoti was
also put in the indigo vat along with the other clothes. When they were put
to dry, he suddenly noticed that the spots where the mud had stuck to the
dhoti were not colored by the indigo. This gave him the bright idea of
experimenting the same now with mud smeared in a pattern over a cloth
and the effort bore fruit, since the pattern came out un-dyed while the rest
of the cloth got colored with the indigo color. This is believed to be the beginning of Dabu being created for the first time. This characteristic of the
mud found there and the water of the river gave birth to a new tradition that was called ‘Dabu’. Dabu is believed to be employed in India since 8th century A.D. since a specimen of Dabu printed fabric was found about that
time in Central Asia.
The prints popularly adorned the flowing Ghagras. These were the favored clothing of the women, locally called ‘Fetiya’ in Rajasthan. This was usually
coupled with a Bandhej Lugda (a long fabric draped over the head). Taking
one long Dabu printed fabric with the preferred motifs of concerned
community, Fetiya was made with just one line of stitching. It was crafted by joining the extreme ends of a 8-12 meter fabric (the length varied with the buyer’s interest). The garment then beautifully enveloped Jat, Gadariya
& Gujjar women. Popular ones are Kahma, Lal titri, Dholika, Kantedar. The craftsmen dip the blocks into a viscous paste of mud, gum and lime. The method gets it’s name from the word ‘dabaana’ , meaning ‘to press’.
Earlier, Rajasthan province was densely populated with Dabu printing
clusters. Now, very few remain to live the legacy. Few clusters cater to the fabric demands of neighboring villages. The colors of the sky – blue of the day, indigo of the night, red of the sunsets – are mostly seen in the regional
attire. Each producing village is a self sufficient system for Dabu printing.
Block carvers sculpt the blocks, the earth lends mud and the river bestows
water. The fabrics are sourced from Kishangarh and pigments come from
Their craft speaks of skill and years of experience, as the craftsmen swiftly pattern the clothes. The application of resist and dye are done several
times, painstakingly with great artistry, to get various shades of ground and motif color. As time passed, Alizarin pigment used to impart red color was
replaced by Naphthol and the craftsmen began to use tar instead of mud in case of designs which require sharper contrasts.
Some of the native craftsmen specialized in block printing. Few hundred years ago, Rani Rathorji of Mewar, established a village by the banks of Beduch river for them. Today around 200 people practice this craft in some of the villages Like the essence of earth, Dabu prints remain the primeval printing method.
And like the patterns, these fabrics are deeply embedded in the cultural
identities of various Rajasthani communities.
Dabu, derived from the word ‘Dabaana’ meaning press, is a technique of using mud as a resist, to create patterns on indigo dyed fabric. With its main centers in Rajasthan, Gujarat and Madhya Pradesh, this craft flourishes in areas that naturally has sticky clay like soil, easily available in
nearby areas. Traditionally these prints adorned the lehenga’s and odhni’s of the women in this area. Today a wide variety of garments, and home linen are available in this technique. The technique is believed to have dated back to the 8th century AD, based on the oldest known Dabu textile, found in Central Asia.
Buy Dabu Printed sarees online at Unnati SilksSarees
Unnati silks has experimented with dabu prints mainly on handloom
cottons of specific varieties since Dabu Printsproduce astounding results on cotton handlooms.
Take the Rajasthani cotton handlooms. Earthy and dark hues with
pleasantly attractive floral patterns adorn these Dabu Prints sarees. There are the Venkatagiri cotton handlooms in dark shades that have stripes design, a lot of striking geometrical patterns like the zigzag pattern, huge
floral bootis and designer pallus. There are also the lighter shades that have plenty of fresh floral and checks patterns as Dabu Prints with
mesmerizing designer pallus. There are other cotton handloom varieties
also that feature Dabu prints.
Experimentation with silk has also been done successfully with the Dabu
prints on Kota silk sarees. Salwar Kameez
There are two interesting ranges in the Rajasthani soft cotton and
the Mangalagiri Rajasthani cotton collection. The typical indigo Dabu
range with the familiar blue and white indigo color salwar suits. There are
the Maheshwari soft Rajasthani cotton Punjabi suits with dark colored
plain fields on the kameez and a designer dabu printed chiffon dupatta.
Kurtas & Kurtis
You have brilliant prints on soft Rajasthani soft cotton kurtas, the deep
blue indigo prints range, the Chanderi sicosection that has lovely vibrant
hues in Dabu on the kameez, the Punjab cotton salwar suits with floral
designs all over. There is a variety in kameez look due to a variety of
sleeve formats, from full sleeves to no sleeves. The kameez neck hasdifferent shapes from plain circular to the mandarin collar type with neck,
sleeves and kameez bottom borders having simple designs to exquisite
thread work. The salwars are plain or with light Dabu designs, while the
dupattas are pure designer.
Women’s Indian Skirts
The Indian Skirt borrowed from the Western Skirt adapted to the Indian
situation. Unnati experimented with a new look long skirt or maxi skirt that took the market by storm. The Indian version of the skirt has gone down well with Indian women. Not restricted to a length close to the knees like the western skirt, the Indian skirt is a long flowing drape from waist downwards to just above feet level. Suits tradition and looks trendy.
The Indian skirt being a modern garment and Dabu being a traditional style of printing, it was a unique experiment to get stylish innovative prints that would woo the fashion world.
Cotton creations in waist sizes suitable for the average Indian woman, the 38” long Skirts in pure handloom cotton, sport abstract designs that freshen the mind. Providing a fresh appeal with vibrant colours, there is an attempt to infuse delightful variety through frills and flaring bottoms, novel innovative introductions in pattern and design vide the traditional Dabu Prints, to continually enthrall the market and keep alive its interest in the indian skirt.
Brief about Unnati:
Unnati’s online website :https://www.unnatisilks.com/ is highly acclaimed for being one of the leading portals for pure Indian Handlooms & Handcrafted Products.
Outfit Details –
Saree – Unnati Silks
Top – Globus
Lipshade – Huda Beauty (Vixen)
Photographer – Vaibhav (Instagram @dazzlingshoots)
This is all for today.
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